Search This Blog

19 May 2017

Thinking On A Plane & Inequality #HogsAbroad in South Africa

Thinking On A Plane:

Monday, May 15th 03:30
If you are anything like me, when you find yourself on a long flight you do a lot of thinking. Mostly about stupid stuff like: "why did God make raisins? That was a dumb move" or "wow, I'm in a steel tube darting through the air at 600 mph." But, then again, you think about important things. You think about your mom because its Mother's Day. And then you think about James Taylor and her obsession with him. You look out the window and see the vast ocean before you. You think about what that means and how you can't think of a good enough answer. You think about that song "Oceans" and then about Todd Fernandez (of course.) You think about how cold that dark blue water must be and how great the warmth in this steel carcass really is. You think about how eventually you'll see the African mainland and how you'll probably be disappointed and unimpressed because it will look just like home--green, alive, kinda like broccoli when you view it from your throne in the sky. You think about that terrible song by Toto called "Africa" and whether or not you too will miss the rain down in Africa on your way home. You think of all the things the word "Africa" has meant to you since your childhood and how most of them were misinformed. You think and you think and you think and you find it hard to think about anything concrete. You feel incomplete as you think. 
I basked in that incompleteness and realized that's why I'm here, on this plane, in the first place. Due to my incompleteness, I'm searching for experience and guidance--and sometimes that means finding myself very far from home. I haven't even seen it yet and South Africa is speaking to me. I'm straining to hear it knowing it holds a purposeful message--in history, in culture, in truth. And I wait and I wait for it to form more clearly in my ears. And no it doesn't sound like that damn Toto song.

Inequality

Tuesday, May 16th 22:01
I saw two South Africas today. I woke up in Johannesburg (Jo-burg for short.) It is the financial capitol of the country where a fast paced job-oriented life is the key to a life well lived. In Jo-burg, a good job is the most important characteristic to a person's success. Material and capital accumulate in this financial hub, bolstering up a strong white ruling class from the apartheid-era and caring to continue a similar black ruling class post-apartheid. It is a modern metropolis with a downtown littered with skyscrapers and suburbs covered with industry. Political news is featured heavily in protest art--one particular blatant display of displeasure in a faltering South African President through the words "F*$! Off Zuma" was etched in bold lettering on the large barrier containing the freeway. The view from the plane showcased a sprawling cityscape of diverse neighborhoods and markets and golf courses. 
However, just a short flight to Nelspruit, on our way to Kruger National Park, demonstrated another reality. Somewhere between Jo-burg and Kruger I entered a new country (figuratively, not literally.) A new country with a different value system on living a meaningful life. This observation is due in course to my own observation, but I'm convinced if you saw what I saw on that short drive from Nelspruit to Kruger you would have to agree. I experienced everything my mind didn't wish to see in my time here, every stereotype I wished away as untrue in order to see Africa as new. Women carrying jars on their heads, carrying small children in a pouch on their back, working the field, wearing the vibrant colors of the rainbow. Cinder block houses built quickly. Roadside markets that sold specialty products or produce for cheap. An abundance of night clubs, hair salons, and churches. Foot traffic was the major (and only?) way for some to get around these small towns. The only connection between all these was an abject sense of poverty--the opposite of Jo-burg. Of course, there must be poverty in Jo-burg. But, nothing compared to this rural scene I found myself in. I tried my best to forcefully remove those stereotypes as I thought of them. 
And throughout this tumultuous mind game I played against these stereotypes, it all spoke to me. Women dressed in bright, vibrant colors with children on their backs spoke to life. Half-built cinder block rooms spoke to development. Roadside markets spoke to creation and innovation. Buildings plainly labeled "Night Club" or "Hair Salon" spoke to normalcy. And the poverty spoke to the universality of suffering. I saw a diverse, large, wide country today and the only adequate words to describe it all was modern inequality--where the gap between poor and rich is like the leap I made across the Atlantic Ocean. From my arrival until now, South Africa has constantly challenged my ideas, adding a complexity to the African narrative that I did not expect.
Until next time,
Jacob F. Maestri
--
Follow Jacob on his study abroad at http://ablogaboutsouthafrica.blogspot.com
For more information on the U of A Faculty-Led: South Africa, Past and Present program at http://studyabroad.uark.edu/safrica