University of Arkansas Office of Study Abroad: The Market #HogsAbroad in Mozambique

Regardless of the everyday challenges these children have some of the biggest hearts and most hopefully spirits of any humans I have ever met.

It was our first Sunday in Nampula and after an early morning of hiking and church services we decided to visit the market. This would be our first experience walking along the city streets of Nampula and interacting directly with the locals. I had little to no expectations but was honestly nervous after hearing the stories about petty theft and stolen items in the past. I brought nothing of material value with me and went with an open mind. As soon as we left the gates of the Bamboo Hotel all eyes were on us. Our group was the center of attention and received shouts from nearly all directions. The attention walking along the streets was less to none compared to what the market would be.

We crossed the street and began to walk along rows of vendors selling vegetables, fruits, and other items all laid out along the ground. I made eye contact with locals and received countless stares of interest, curiosity, and confusion. For the first time in my life I felt that I was truly the outsider looking in. Having traveled to Italy before this was no comparison in the emotions of “WOWNESS” that came from walking through the market. Words can only do so much as to describe this experience. Although still on planet Earth, this way of living is so far different than anything I have ever seen.

It felt as though we were somewhere galaxies away from home. My heart sank into my stomach and tears began to swell in my eyes. I kept a smile on my face and greeted others with “Ola” meaning hello in Portuguese not wanting to show my true emotions. Our group made an entire loop around the market. We walked under roofs of trash bags waving in the air. As we continued to gain stares, pointed fingers, and laughs, my reaction was lighthearted and as friendly as possible. I guess that the emotions of sadness came from children with little clothing, homes made of mud, and vegetables being sold that were surrounded by flies.

The growers had tomatoes, potatoes, cassava, bananas, and beans to sell along with colorful long skirts that the women often wear. To them this is food that only some of the more affluent can afford. A goat was noticed tied up in the corner of the market along with compressed walkways of trash beneath my feet. Having had a sinus infection for the last week, it had been difficult to smell. However, while walking through the market harsh aromas that were unpleasant to the senses made me wrinkle my nose. The smell of the market is unlike any other, that of rotten vegetables and tightly packed humans with little means of sanitation. Half way around the market we had children running in front, beside, and behind us. Several came to me with hands open begging for anything I could spare. My response was “Nada” the only way I knew how to say nothing as I opened my hands to show they were empty.

The children laughed and smiled as some of the students took their photos. A majority of the children had clothing that was torn, ill-fitting, and few if any had shoes. A small child, maybe age 6 was seen standing on a pile of trash, barefoot, digging for anything of possible use. Although to us they had so little, their hearts were full of hope and happiness. My heart is overflowing with compassion and a willingness to help, but this was an adjustment period. Culture shock was in full force.

Our group gathered where we had begun around the market and everyone was ready to make the short walk back to the hotel. The children followed us while the adults looked on. When we reached the gates to the hotel it was as if there was an invisible line that was not to be crossed. We said “Ciao”, goodbye in Portuguese and had a quiet walk back into the walls of the hotel to process the time at the market.