Dusseldorf also keeps track of beer using the coaster method, the 7.50 refers to the price of the meal
Even before I became
interested in beer and its history, I have always had a desire to visit
Germany. I had been looking at going to Cologne for awhile because its
just a 2 hour train ride from Brussels, and reached out to Eric Marshall
of Marshall Brewing Company for advice. He suggested visiting
Dusseldorf as well, which is a city just north of Cologne. On Wednesday
of this last week, I woke up and decided this weekend was just as good
as any other, and booked a train.
The
moment you step out of the train station, the Cologne Cathedral catches
your eye. This massive, gothic cathedral was started in the 13th
century, and only recently (in the grand scheme of history) was it
completed in 1880. In the world of beer, Cologne is known for a
specific ale that even has its own laws protecting it-the Kolsch. Just
like Champagne can only be called Champagne if it originates from a
certain region, the Kolsch has a protected geographical indication for
Cologne brewers.
Gaffel
Am Dom was the first brauhaus I visited, and the beer did not
disappoint. While most beer in Germany is in the lager category, the
Kolsch is made with an ale yeast and then lagered, giving it some slight
fruitiness that makes for a much more complex beer compared to lagers
with similar color. The servers in the Kolsch breweries are known as
Kobes, and carry around trays full of 200ml glasses of beer; once you’ve
almost finished one, they will oblige you with a full beer and make a
tally mark on your coaster. The only way to stop the beer flowing is by
placing your coaster on top of your glass. In most bars and breweries,
the beer is served from a plastic or wooden barrel rather than a
pressurized keg.
Cafes and stores along the Rhine
After
exploring the Altstadt (old town) of Cologne, I settled in at Fruh
brewery for dinner. I had the best bratwurst I have ever eaten,
accompanied by a mountain of fries and the excellent Fruh Kolsch.
The
next day started off with the Roman-Germanic Museum. Cologne was
founded as a Roman settlement, and the museum is built around a town
villa. The museum had a plethora of artifacts, ranging from busts of
Marcus Aurelius and Commodus (”The Gladiator” Ceasars), the entrance
arch of the main fortress, and the Dionysus mosaic that the museum has
been built around. After leaving the museum, I hopped on a 20 minute
train to Dusseldorf to watch Belgium play Ireland in the Euro Cup and
experience another city’s take on beer.
Statue of Hercules battling a lion
While
Cologne has the light Kolsch, Dusseldorf has the caramel colored
altbier. This beer is also brewed with an ale yeast and then lagered to
mellow out the flavor. The altbier tends to be darker, maltier, and
hoppier than its Kolsch counterpart.
I
found a great spot outside of the Schumacher brewery to enjoy great
beer with a great meal, and watched Belgium clench three points against
the Irish.
Altstadt of Dusseldorf
After
experiencing the different breweries take on their cities’ traditional
beer, I would have to say the Altbier takes my preference between the
two styles, and Schumacher takes my preference for Altbiers.
On my
return to Cologne, I ended my night at a night flea market, where a
local band played some hybrid indie-electronic-slowjam genre that was
an interesting way to end the night.
Just
as Belgium cannot be explored in a day, I did not feel like I received a
complete grasp on these two cities’ cultures. I think a thorough tour
of Germany will have to be made whenever I am back in Europe, maybe my
fiance turned wife by that point will be here to do it with me!
In the world of beer, Cologne is known for a
specific ale that even has its own laws protecting it-the Kolsch. Just
like Champagne can only be called Champagne if it originates from a
certain region, the Kolsch has a protected geographical indication for
Cologne brewers.
