There is a pleasant alchemy here of gentle natural beauty
and the vibrant heritage of generations past. That unassuming natural beauty –
Cambridge must be one of the few places where humans have improved upon nature
– I have described above. But, if anything, the material remains of that
‘vibrant heritage’ are just as affecting.
Concentrated along King’s Parade and
Trumpington Street is one of the world’s great collections of architecture, a
fact appreciated by the ever-present tourists that flock here in numbers second
only to London. Across from King’s College Chapel, which is the preeminent
example of Perpendicular Gothic, is Great St. Mary’s Church.
A bit further down
the road are the courts of St. John’s College and the iconic Round Church. Further
south there is the grand façade of the Fitzwilliam Museum, and spanning the
river are the beautiful Bridge of Sighs and the Mathematical Bridge. Much
humbler, but of greater antiquity, is the church of St. Bene’t, right outside
my window. Its foundations are just shy of a thousand years old, laid when
Canute was king.
For the historically-minded, or for those that simply have a soft spot for old things, Cambridge is an intense thrill. Indeed, the persistence of the past here is nearly palpable. The college at which I’ve matriculated, The College of Corpus Christi and the Blessed Virgin Mary, was founded in 1352, and its Old Court, the oldest in Oxbridge, is still very much in use.
A few weeks ago a thick, soupy fog moved in – ‘on little cat fee’,
Sandburg would say – and obscured even the modest spires of the New Court. For
a few hours the college seemed an island of timelessness, as if it had
forgotten to change centuries with the rest of the world.
That impression is in
some ways confirmed by the survival of tradition; the customs seem almost as fixed
as the foundations of St. Bene’t’s. A
Latin grace is still used at formal meals; academic gowns are still worn at
formal occasions; the names of the original founders are still read out at the
annual Commemoration Service. It is not affectation, but an ironic affection
among the young; among the aged the irony is muted by memory. As many English (and
Scottish and Welsh) students have told me, the university is a ‘throwback’ – a
throwback which they enjoy immensely. And which, I might add, I too enjoy
immensely.